Sediment Texture and Topography Features Control on Coastal Morphodynamics State

Abstract

The characteristic of the change sediment texture and topography features are primary variable for coastal morphodynamics state, besides Ω is known as the dimension fall velocity, period and breaker wave height. Morphodynamic state as a coastal system is an important issue for a proper coastal management and planning. Study area is located at Parepare and Pinrang Regencies. The purpose of this study is to explain coastal morphodynamics. The study methods are field study and petrography analysis. To examine the coastal sediment and topography features along the beach is used Gradistat software. The results indicate that the lithology of the study area mainly consists of tuff and volcanic breccia which might has formed in Late Miocene. The Lapakaka beach is a tide-modified beach, has a steep slope, coarse grain sediments, cusped and reflective. Lumpue beach is also a tide-modified beach, however it has fine grain sediments, low gradient and often featureless; Tassiwalie beach is wave-dominated beaches of reflective states, has coarser grain sediments and consist of relatively steep beach slope (5-20o); Sibo beach is tide-dominated beaches, very low waves, low elevation, coarse-grained and irregular; Maroneng beach include in dissipative, fine sediment, low gradient swash (~1o) and containing bar. The all beaches type above shows different state in sediment texture and topography. The study needs to be continued in order to understand deeply the beach morphodynamics state in supporting an integrated coastal management.